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Sacred Mt. Belukha, the "White Mountain," located almost exactly in the center of the Eurasian
continent,has attracted pilgrims since the days of the great
Chinese empires.
But in the last decade the trickle of intrepid seekers has become a flood of
trekkers, carrying in their supplies on their backs or horseback to Lake Akkem at the base of
Mt. Belukha (50 kilometers from the nearest
village), and leaving their garbage to
rot away in the wilderness. A hundred years ago, that worked fine, but now it is piling up, sullying
the gorgeous alpine terrain.
Valery Yakubovsky, head of the
mountain rescue service there, and his medics had been regularly collecting the garbage and
burying it, but the amount was increasing with each season. The previous year, Valery said,
he and his crew spent a whole week in September picking up
garbage. And they had run out of places where there was enough soil on top of the bedrock
to bury it. Additionally, hundreds of trekkers using the bushes as toilets without attention to
the water supply, had created a health hazard. The situation at the climbing base camp further
up the mountain was even worse,
because there was no possibility of burying garbage there. Piles of climbers' discarded oxygen
bottles surrounded the camp.
What to do? Not only did the mess need to be cleaned up and the garbage
transported out to a less sensitive area, but trekkers
needed to be educated to leave no trace.
I, Carol, have been one of these trekkers for the past several years. With a desire to steward this
sacred place, one summer day in 2005 I was able to discuss my interest with Valery and we hatched a plan.
In summer of 2006, I was planning an international expedition, and was still trying to figure out
how to get a mixed age group up the hill safely and in relative comfort. Valery suggested that
I fly everyone by helicopter, and I suggested that the empty return trips could be used for carrying out
garbage and carrying in building materials for outhouses.
I took this idea back to Moscow and started looking for environmental funding. Immediately, Lena Lebedeva
of World Wildlife Fund/Russia offered some starter funding and staff support to work with all the
stake-holders (Valery, Belukha National Park Director Igor Sailankin, possible volunteer groups, other
possible funders, etc.) to formulate a plan. That collaborative planning, implemented by Sergey
Shafarenko of WWF-Siberia, turned out to be a major task. There was much debate over whose responsibility
continuing clean-ups should be, how the garbage should be collected, transported, and disposed of, and
what kind of educational campaign would work.
Although the helicopter, in the long run, did not work out for transporting our group, it did eventually
carry out garbage. And together with our international expedition, our Russian co-travellers and a few
other trekkers spent an afternoon picking up 22 big bags of garbage. Shortly thereafter, another party
had the helicopter at the lake, and Valery arranged for the garbage to be transported out.
Of course, the need for trekker/climber education remains (although a sign was installed at the beginning
of the trail), and will be part of further initiatives.
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